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I found with joy that the south Indian seasoning podi – a coarse mix of searingly hot, crudely milled spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a accompaniment for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. That’s not a misnomer if you were using my grandmother’s personally dried peppers, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an extraordinarily good marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Lime-Mint Dressing

Prepare six to eight skewers made of metal or wood (if made of wood, soak them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook 30 minutes
Serves 2

400g starchy potatoes, cut into four-centimeter chunks
8 ounces paneer, cubed into two-centimeter cubes
One teaspoon coriander seeds
Half a teaspoon fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
One teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, with more for serving
2 cloves of garlic, skinned and shredded
2½cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
about 3 tablespoons flavorless oil
One red onion, prepared and divided into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Lime zest and juice, freshly prepared
10g fresh mint leaves, diced small
½ tsp flaky sea salt
100g natural yoghurt

Boil the potatoes for about 10 minutes, then pour off the liquid and leave to steam dry for a minute. At the same time, put the paneer cubes in a bowl of boiling water for 5 minutes, then strain and blot dry.

Add the cumin, coriander, and fennel seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the peppercorns, chilli flakes and sea salt, then pound or blitz to a rough rubble.

Place in a sizable container with the minced ginger and garlic, add the oil, then lightly combine with the ingredients to coat. Thread the vegetables and cheese on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then place on a tray and reserve for later – optionally, you can at this stage cover and refrigerate the skewers.

Whisk all the dressing components in a container. Preheat the broiler to its top temperature, then grill the skewers for a short time on each side, until the paneer is crispy and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a different amount of time depending on the fierceness of your grill, so keep an eye on them, especially when cooking the first side.)

Present the skewers warm, sprinkled with a little more salt and the sauce on the side for serving.